How is this better than Simplify3D? Only difference I can see is possible DLP support, but that's a pretty niche market. As well, the graphs are extremely confusing. I can't figure out if you're saying that 3DimMaker is taking more or less time to slice than the other slicers on the Stretchlet test. Do you have any physical print comparisons between Cura, S3D, Slic3r, and 3DimMaker?by solomondg - Crowdfunding Projects Announcements
Do you mind posting all your print info? Things like layer height, speed, temperature, etc.by solomondg - General
Perhaps you could post the configuration.h file you are trying to use?by solomondg - Developers
It's not an amazing printer. You'd be better off with a Printrbot.by solomondg - General
DRV8825s have x32 microstepping, and are a bit better than the a4988s, which just have x16 microstepping. I use A4988s, they work fine. Go with whichever one you prefer.by solomondg - Prusa i3 and variants
Go for Ramps 1.4 + Arduino Mega.by solomondg - Prusa i3 and variants
Your GT2 belt gears might be too loose and slipping.by solomondg - Printing
What is your microstepping setting? Make sure it's on x16.by solomondg - Prusa i3 and variants
I think that the best option at the moment would be a h-bot or CNC style extruded aluminum gantry.by solomondg - General
X- and Z- carriage should be fine, but I worry about the large mass of the print bed. I'd recommend an ultimaker-style design. Remember, lower moving mass == better. Take a look at the Eustathios and the Ingentis.by solomondg - General
Both the hotends and motors look super sketchy. Going higher quality (genuine hotends, pololu motors) will save you money in the long one. I'd recommend just getting an old ATX power supply Works great for both my printers.by solomondg - Smart_Rap
Can you post a picture of the printer and the extruder block? I might know what the problem is, but I need a few pictures.by solomondg - Mechanics
Looks like your flow rate's off. Try lowering it. Are the parts dimensionally accurate?by solomondg - Printing
Try raising the flow rate, maybe. Adding more top solid infill layers wouldn't hurt, either.by solomondg - Printing
1) Invert X and Y in the firmware 2) set the current endstops as max as opposed to min endstops 3) ??? 4) profit!by solomondg - Printing
Go with the makerfarm. It's miles above all the others except the printrbot. Pretty much anything Geeetech or QUBD is trash.by solomondg - General
Make sure that your heater and thermistor are properly attached to the controller board, and that your printer's getting enough power. Alternately, you might have a jam in your hotend, or your extruder's not powerful enough. Mind attaching a picture?by solomondg - Printing
I have a question: Is the rod spacing for the X-Axis the same as the stock/current gen Smartrap? I'd really like to use that X-carriage you made.by solomondg - Smart_Rap
Quotesolomondg I hated the extruder (not much force, could never get the filament through the nut), so I just swapped it out with an Airtripper BSP. Never looked back! Same! Works great now!by solomondg - Smart_Rap
Should have the same settings. Marlin was based off Sprinter, accel and all. You really should upgrade to Marlin, though. What printer are you using?by solomondg - Reprappers
That's called ghosting. It's caused by the weight of your x-axis (assuming you printed it on a XZ-head style RepRap). You can print slower or reduce the mass of the extruder (i.e. bowden extruder).by solomondg - Reprappers
What works for me is to actually have super fast, slightly underextruded bridge lines (80-90%. Around 60-80 mm/s. Underextrusion is optional, but they help with droop.by solomondg - Printing
Looks like you just have to set offsets in your slicer. Not sure how to do it in Cura or Slicer. If you're at all familiar with Gcode, you could try adding the lines G0 X45 G92 X0 in Cura and Slic3r's start gcode/script. I know that in Simplify3D, you can just set offsets. The gcode thing should work, though. Feel free to msg me with any questions. Kinda late now, and I don't think this answerby solomondg - Printing
I'd recommend a Mendel90. They're sturdy, easy to build, and great printers.by solomondg - General
You'd just have to raise the cube 10cm off the virtual bed in the slicer, or you could raise the Z-endstop so that it homes to the 10cm position.by solomondg - General
I'd go with the Mendel90. It's a great printer, and not too hard to assemble.by solomondg - General
Looks like your tempature is too high. What temp are you running at, and are you using a cooling fan?by solomondg - General
So, recently, I've been having a problem with my new Smartrap; due to the oversized build plate (250x250mm glass) the stepper motors can very easily be pulled off or shift off the base. It happens especially with the Y-Stepper, but when the build plate is off to one side, the entire block of 3 steppers can tilt and almost fall over. Are there any solutions? I'm going to try separating the print bby solomondg - Smart_Rap